Anemone
Anemone · Ranunculaceae
Description
Anemone is a genus of flowering perennials in the buttercup family (Ranunculaceae). Often called windflowers, its species range from low, spreading woodland plants to taller flowers grown in garden borders. The blooms may be cup-shaped or daisy-like. Their showy, petal-like parts are sepals surrounding a cluster of stamens; true petals are usually absent. Depending on the species and cultivar, flowers can be white, pink, red, purple, or blue. Leaves are often deeply lobed or divided, giving many anemones a delicate, fernlike appearance.
Flowering time varies considerably. Wood anemones bloom in spring, often before deciduous trees fully leaf out. Poppy anemones, commonly grown for cut flowers, bloom in spring in mild climates. Plants commonly called Japanese anemones provide flowers from late summer into autumn. Some species spread by creeping rhizomes, while others grow from tubers or fibrous roots. Height and growth habit therefore differ enough that a small woodland species and a tall border anemone may need quite different spaces.
Growing conditions also depend on the species. Woodland anemones generally favor partial shade and soil that retains some moisture without becoming waterlogged. Poppy anemones usually flower best in a sunny position with well-drained soil. Many are suitable for garden beds or naturalistic plantings, and their open flowers can attract pollinating insects. Check the needs of the particular species before planting: an anemone adapted to a cool, shaded woodland is unlikely to thrive under the same conditions as one grown in a sunny cutting garden.
Anemones are ornamental plants, not edible flowers. Their fresh sap and plant parts can irritate skin or the mouth, so wear gloves if handling them causes irritation, and keep cut stems away from children and pets.
Growing Conditions
20–45 cm (8–18 in) tall, 15–25 cm (6–10 in) wide
- Smallest
- Largest
Part sun, 4+ hours
Tolerates full sun, part shade
Moderate
Keep evenly moist, not soggy.
Ideal 10–24 °C (50–75 °F)
Survives down to −18 °C (0 °F).
pH 6–7.5 · neutral
Where it Grows
Planting
When to Plant
The right planting time depends on which anemone you have and how cold your winters are. Plant spring-flowering Anemone blanda tubers in autumn, before the ground freezes, so they can establish roots for spring blooms. Plant Anemone coronaria corms in autumn where winters are mild and the soil drains well; in colder regions, plant them in spring after the danger of hard frost has passed. You can start those corms indoors a few weeks earlier for earlier flowers. Plant potted Japanese anemones, which flower in late summer or autumn, in spring or early autumn. Spring gives them the longest time to establish; if planting in autumn, allow at least six weeks before the ground freezes. Check the plant label if you are unsure of the type. More than a calendar date, watch for workable soil that is not frozen or waterlogged, and avoid planting during a heat wave or drought.
How to Plant
Choose a site with well-drained soil. Spring-flowering A. blanda does well in sun or partial shade, including beneath deciduous trees. A. coronaria flowers best with plenty of sun; Japanese anemones tolerate partial shade and benefit from afternoon shade in hot climates. Loosen the soil and mix in compost if it is compacted or poor. Avoid spots where water stands after rain, as tubers and corms can rot.
Plant A. blanda tubers about 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) apart. Plant A. coronaria corms about 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart. If their orientation is unclear, lay them on their sides. Soaking dry A. coronaria corms in room-temperature water for a few hours before planting can help them rehydrate; do not leave them soaking overnight.
For potted Japanese anemones, dig a hole as deep as the root ball and wider than it. Set the plant at the same depth it grew in its pot, and allow roughly 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) between plants. Backfill gently, water thoroughly, and add a light layer of mulch without covering the crown. Keep the soil evenly moist while plants establish, but not soggy.
Care
Care Calendar
- Divide · Mar 13 – Apr 30
Divide crowded Japanese anemones in early spring, replanting sections promptly. - Deadhead · Mar 27 – Jul 9
Remove spent spring-anemone flowers to keep plants tidy. - Deadhead · Aug 2 – Oct 31
Remove faded Japanese-anemone flowers if you prefer a tidy display. - Lift and store · May 8 – Aug 6
Where winters are too cold or wet for poppy anemones, lift their corms after the foliage yellows and store them dry. - Mulch · Oct 11 – Nov 21
Mulch newly planted Japanese anemones for winter without burying their crowns.
Watering
Keep anemones evenly moist while they are actively growing, but avoid waterlogged soil, which can rot roots or corms. Water deeply when the top 2–3 cm (about 1 inch) of soil feels dry, then let excess water drain. Newly planted anemones need more frequent checks until they establish. Established plants generally need supplemental water during dry spells; those in containers dry out faster than those in garden beds. Water at the soil surface rather than soaking the leaves to reduce fungal disease. Spring-flowering corm anemones, such as Anemone coronaria, need moisture while growing and flowering but much less once their foliage yellows and they enter summer dormancy. Autumn-flowering anemones benefit from consistent moisture through summer, especially while forming buds. Adjust your schedule to rainfall and soil conditions rather than watering on a fixed timetable.
Pruning
Remove spent flowers if you want a tidier plant or longer display, cutting each flower stalk back to its base with clean scissors or pruners. Leave healthy foliage in place after spring-flowering anemones bloom: it feeds the underground corms or rhizomes for the next season. Once that foliage has yellowed naturally, it can be removed. Cut dead stems and leaves from autumn-flowering anemones in late autumn or early spring; leaving the stems standing over winter can provide some habitat and help mark the plant’s location. Remove diseased leaves promptly and discard them rather than composting them if the disease is uncertain. Autumn-flowering anemones can spread by underground roots. If a clump is crowding its neighbors, lift and divide it in spring, removing unwanted pieces. Wear gloves if the plant irritates your skin.
Weeding
Keep the area around young anemones free of weeds so their roots do not have to compete for water and nutrients. Pull weeds when the soil is slightly damp, taking care not to disturb shallow roots, rhizomes, or planted corms. Hand-weeding is safer than deep hoeing close to the plants. Check regularly in spring, when emerging anemone shoots can be small and easy to mistake for weeds. Mark the planting site if your anemones disappear aboveground during dormancy; this also helps prevent accidental digging later in the year. Remove weeds before they set seed, and take out perennial weeds with as much of their root system as possible. Autumn-flowering anemones may send up shoots beyond their original clump. Decide which are welcome before weeding, and remove unwanted shoots while they are small.
Mulching
Apply a thin layer of compost, leaf mold, or other loose organic mulch around established anemones to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. About 2–5 cm (1–2 inches) is usually enough; keep mulch away from the plant’s crown and avoid burying emerging shoots. A loose mulch is particularly useful around autumn-flowering anemones, which appreciate cool, consistently moist soil during summer. In cold areas, mulch can also help moderate winter temperature swings, but do not let a thick, wet layer sit over dormant corms: excess moisture encourages rot. Refresh the mulch as it breaks down, preferably after clearing away diseased plant debris. Where spring anemones grow among deciduous trees, fallen leaves can provide a natural mulch. If the layer becomes dense and matted, loosen it so new shoots can emerge and water can reach the soil.
Fertilizing
Anemones usually need only modest feeding, especially in soil that already contains organic matter. Work a little compost into the planting area before planting, without placing concentrated fertilizer directly against corms or roots. For established plants, a light top-dressing of compost in spring is often sufficient. In poor soil, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer at the label rate as growth begins; water it in afterward. Avoid heavy applications of nitrogen, which may promote soft, leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Do not keep fertilizing spring-flowering corm anemones after their foliage has died back, since they are entering dormancy. Container-grown anemones may need more regular feeding because nutrients wash out with watering; use a diluted liquid fertilizer during active growth, following its label. If plants grow well and flower reliably, extra fertilizer is unnecessary.
Pest Management
Inspect new growth and flower buds regularly. Slugs and snails may chew young shoots, particularly in damp, shaded gardens; hand-pick them at dusk or use a suitable iron-phosphate bait according to its label. Aphids can cluster on tender stems and buds. A firm spray of water often dislodges them, while beneficial insects may control small populations. Give plants enough space for air circulation, water at soil level, and remove badly affected foliage to limit problems such as powdery mildew and gray mold. Avoid working among plants when their leaves are wet, which can help spread some diseases. Yellowing and collapse in persistently soggy soil may indicate root or corm rot; improve drainage rather than watering more. Check plants before using any pesticide, and follow the product label, especially around open flowers visited by pollinators.
Harvesting
Anemones are commonly harvested as cut flowers, particularly Anemone coronaria. Cut stems in the cool of the morning, using clean, sharp snips, when buds are showing color and beginning to open. Flowers cut while still tightly closed may not open well in a vase. Place stems straight into a clean container of water, remove leaves that would sit below the waterline, and keep the arrangement away from direct sun and heat. Change the water and recut stems as needed to extend vase life. Harvest only a portion of the flowers if you want to leave nectar and pollen for visitors or allow seeds to develop. Do not cut away the green foliage of spring-flowering plants when collecting blooms; it is needed for next year’s growth. Anemones are ornamental, not edible, and their sap may irritate skin, so wear gloves if you are sensitive.
Growing in Containers
Grows well in a pot of at least 5 litres (1.3 US gallons), with drainage holes. Best kept outdoors.
Propagation
By division
- Divide established Japanese anemones in spring.
- Lift a clump and separate sections with roots and shoots.
- Replant the sections promptly.
- Water them in well.
From cuttings
- Take root cuttings from a dormant Japanese anemone in late winter.
- Cut healthy roots into short sections.
- Lay the sections horizontally in moist potting mix and cover lightly.
- Keep the mix moist until shoots develop.
- Pot up the new plants before planting them out.
From tubers
- Soak dry tuberous anemone corms for a few hours before planting.
- Plant them in well-drained soil at the depth recommended for the variety.
- Keep the soil lightly moist while growth begins.
- Lift and separate established corms when the foliage has died back.
From seed
- Collect ripe seed or buy seed for the anemone species you are growing.
- Sow it on moist seed-starting mix.
- Provide a cold period if the species requires one.
- Keep the mix lightly moist while seeds germinate.
- Transplant seedlings once they are large enough to handle.
Companion Plants
Good neighbors
- Daffodils: Spring-flowering anemones bloom alongside daffodils and can fill gaps between their clumps.
- Hostas: Japanese anemones and hostas both suit a partly shaded border with consistently moist, well-drained soil.
- Ferns: Ferns share the partly shaded, moist conditions favored by Japanese anemones.
Common Problems
- Yellowing leaves
- Sticky residue on leaves
- Black sooty coating
- Curled or cupped leaves
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that feed by piercing plants and drawing out sap. The group includes many…
- Holes in leaves
- Slime trails
- Stems chewed or cut through
Slugs and snails are soft-bodied mollusks that feed on many garden plants. Snails carry a visible shell; most slugs…
- White powdery coating
- Yellowing leaves
- Curled or cupped leaves
- Distorted new growth
Powdery mildew is a group of fungal diseases, not a single species. Different fungi infect different hosts, including…
- Fuzzy gray mold
- Spots on leaves
- Wilting
- Soft or rotting stems
Gray mold, also called Botrytis blight, is a fungal disease caused most commonly by Botrytis cinerea. It affects many…
- Yellowing leaves
- Wilting
- Stunted growth
- Leaves dropping
Root rot is a general name for the decay of plant roots, not a single disease with one scientific name. It can result…
- Root or corm rot: Most likely in poorly drained, waterlogged soil.
- Powdery mildew and leaf spots: Foliage may develop a white coating or discolored patches, especially when air circulation is poor.
- Slugs and snails: These can damage tender shoots and leaves.
- Aphids: They may gather on new growth and flower stems.
- Unexpected spreading: Some Japanese anemones spread by underground roots and can crowd nearby plants.
Varieties
This Anemone coronaria cultivar has crisp white petals around a dark center.
- white
- single-flowered
This Anemone coronaria cultivar produces vivid violet-blue flowers with dark centers.
- violet-blue
- single-flowered
This Anemone blanda cultivar forms a low carpet of white, daisy-like flowers in spring.
- white
- spring-blooming
This long-grown hybrid bears white flowers with yellow centers in late summer and autumn.
- white
- tall
- autumn-blooming
Its pale pink flowers appear on tall stems from late summer into autumn.
- pale pink
- autumn-blooming
This cultivar bears semi-double, deep pink flowers in late summer and autumn.
- deep pink
- semi-double
- autumn-blooming
More about varieties
- Anemone coronaria ‘De Caen’: A group of single-flowered, brightly colored anemones popular for cutting.
- Anemone coronaria ‘St. Brigid’: A group grown for its full, often double flowers.
- Anemone blanda: A low-growing spring bloomer with daisy-like flowers, commonly in blue, pink or white.
- Anemone nemorosa: Woodland anemone; a spring-flowering species suited to deciduous shade.
- Japanese anemones (Anemone hupehensis and hybrids): Taller plants that flower in late summer and autumn.
Fun Facts
- Anemones belong to the buttercup family, Ranunculaceae.
- The name Anemone comes from the Greek word for wind, giving rise to the common name “windflower.”
- What look like petals on many anemones are actually colorful sepals.
- Some woodland anemones close their flowers at night or in dull weather.
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